DIARY

DIARY

At The Ranch

cadillac ranch route 66 road trip family

We've spent a lot of time on this trip discussing "what our children will remember." Goldie - well, nothing, obviously, but I still like to imagine that the things she's seeing and learning and doing during these weeks will ripple into her future.

The question of Indy's memories is a more complicated one. He's three and a half, almost four - I remember parts of my life from that period, but they're flashes: letting an ice pop drip into a garbage can in the playground, peeling sunburned skin from my babysitter's arm, a skinned knee, seeing my nursery school teacher walking down the street one day.

So I wonder: what will he remember? Will he remember getting to eat Cheetos? Only being allowed to buy one toy in the souvenir shop? Will he remember feeling nervous about not knowing what the place we're going to sleep in tonight looks like yet, or will he remember feeling excited about that not-knowing?

SNAPSHOTS

Roadside

One of my favorite stops so far: a roadside snack shop in Rich Mountain, Arkansas where we stopped for a quick ice cream, and ended up staying for well over an hour just because it was fun and the lady sitting in the dining room (who oh, did she mention? used to TRAIN WILD BEARS as a hobby) couldn't stop giving Goldie kisses and the cook put on a full-on magic show with something called a hokum (?) stick.

I cannot tell you how wonderful it's been, just meeting people. We've been staying in chain hotels and eating in chain restaurants only when we absolutely have to because it feels like such an opportunity, the chance to just be a part of the life of wherever it is that we're spending a few hours, and each and every time the decision to get away from the Hampton Inns and Waffle Houses (delicious though those grits might be) has turned out to be a good one. Not because we've necessarily been finding the "best" food or the "nicest" places to stay, but because doing this lets us see a small slice of what's going on, whatever that is.

But let's talk about grilled cheese for a second.

DIARY

The Big Different

I'm anxious about writing this post about the couple of days we spent in Hot Springs, Arkansas. I'm anxious because I can imagine how infuriating it must be to hear a liberal resident of a coastal state (who is likely reacting at least in part to the fact that she feels incredibly out-of-place in a state with such a dramatically different culture) making anything even approaching a judgment.

But I'm a writer, and part of what I write about is my experiences and adventures - and the fact is that this was not an entirely positive one. I want to be clear: there are great things about the area. It is beautiful out there in the country. The food is incredible (oh my goodness, the peel-and-eat shrimp). There is a Star Wars Museum with a full-size replica of Han Solo in carbonite. And. And! We found Zoltar.

Most importantly: we had wonderful conversations with wonderful, kind people who practically treated us and our children like family.

Eat

Oh My Memphis BBQ

interstate best bbq memphis

One thing Kendrick and I both had on our shortlist of Must-Dos: eat Memphis BBQ. I googled and consulted my Road Trip America book and Twitter-sourced, and what we ultimately decided on was the chicken and ribs at Interstate BBQ.

The place is not pretty. It looks kind of like a run-down fast-food joint, and is located right off of (like, basically on top of) the interstate (hence the name). The plates could have come straight out of a 1980s cafeteria, and the service, while friendly, is very much in the "whaddya want?" vein.

But OH MY FOOD. We made our picks based on Yelp reviews, and ended up with pork ribs, a half chicken, potato salad, beans, coleslaw, a side of BBQ spaghetti (which is what it sounds like: spaghetti tossed with slow-cooked pork and BBQ sauce), and fountain sodas the size of basketballs. And we ate (and drank) it all, and our son said "MMM THIS IS DELICIOUS!" over and over and over. (Weirdly, you want to know what my favorite part was? The coleslaw. And I don't particularly like coleslaw, so this both makes no sense and speaks to some kind of weird sorcery happening with however they make their coleslaw in this place.)


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