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Help! My Chocolate Chip Cookies Are Disastrous

Q. Hey Jordan, 

I love your blog and thought you may be able to provide some insight into why my chocolate chip cookies always LOOK HORRIBLE! They taste good…but I can never get a nice little fluffy cookie that doesn’t crumble apart.

I follow the recipe on the Nestle Toll House chocolate chip bag exactly, and yet my cookies always spread out and wind up flat and crispy.

I’m a good cook so I don’t know why I’m having such a problem with chocolate chip cookies!

Stephanie

A. Stephanie, you are my baking spirit sister, because that totally happens to me too, and, like you, I am completely weirded out by it. I’ve been meaning to mention my chocolate chip cookie mishaps here for awhile now, but have just been too mortified at my inability to make the damn things turn out right. I mean, we’re talking chocolate chip cookies, not, like, a house of buttercream meringues.

Or yogurt cake.

So granted, I’m a pretty disastrous baker (as you can see in the above video, the whole “precision” thing is not my forte; I like making those loaf cakes because they’re a lot more improvisational than…say…this)…but still: one would think chocolate chip cookies made using what is theoretically the easiest recipe ever would be Jordan-proof.

But here’s the real mystery: when I make the recipe off the back of the bag in any oven other than my own, they come out great. It’s only from my oven (a prehistoric, rickety thing) that they emerge flat, and somehow simultaneously chewy and crispy, and terrible terrible terrible.

Which is all to say: I don’t know the answer to your question. But I sent it over to guru-of-all-things-dessert Alejandra to get her take on your troubles.

“OK, my instinct here tells me it’s an issue with either the butter or the temperature of the dough, but I’ll go over a few other factors that could be affecting the cookies. Basically, the warmer your dough, the flatter/crispier the result is going to be. The Nestle recipe is kind of notorious for producing flat cookies, which some people like, but which may not be your taste.

Starting with the butter at the right temperature is key to chocolate chip cookie perfection. The Nestle recipe (and most others) calls for “softened” butter…which can lead folks to just use butter that’s been melted in the microwave (bad!) or that’s been sitting out for awhile and is practically liquefied (also bad!). The butter should be taken out of the fridge no more than 20 minutes before baking. a perfect test is to hold a wrapped stick of it in your hand and push your thumb into it – if it makes a very slight dent, it’s perfect. Too soft (or melted) butter will cause cookies to spread out and come out thin, crisp, and crumbly.

The temperature of the dough could also be affecting the results. The Nestle recipe doesn’t indicate this (I don’t know why, because it should), but you should always chill your dough before scooping it. For best results, pop the dough in the fridge overnight or at least for an hour or two, to firm it up. Also, be sure to pop any extra dough back in the fridge between batches.

Some other things to look out for:

Use unsalted butter–salted butter has more water in it, which causes spreading
Preheat your oven for at least 20 minutes before baking
Get a good quality light-colored cookie sheet (dark pans get hotter)
Never grease your pan, but be sure to line it with parchment paper or a Silpat to prevent sticking and provide further protection
Let your pans cool to room temperature or lower between batches
Use a cookie scoop for even sized cookies
Underbake your cookies a minute or two less than the recipe calls for. It will make for a much chewier cookie.
Don’t open & close the oven during baking as it lets the heat escape and will cause for uneven baking
And (most important) check the temperature of your oven! Ovens are such liars. Get an external oven thermometer (they’re about $10-$20 and SO worth it) and test that when your oven claims it’s at 350 or 375 degrees, it really is.”

Well, that was unbelievably helpful. My crappy oven reads imprecisely, plus I have a tendency to a) try to cream the butter straight from the refrigerator, or b) leave it out on the counter, feel very proud of myself for remembering to allow it to soften up, and then promptly forget about it until it has become a squishy mess, at which point I begin the baking process.

I have a feeling that me and baking will never be best friends, but still: baby steps.

Thank you, Alejandra!



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  • Sara

    My cookies are ruined every time I make them. Except for this recipe. They keep their shape, they are even more delicious than the recipe on the back of the bag, and so easy. I’d make half the recipe, this would be a ton: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/award-winning-soft-chocolate-chip-cookies/detail.aspx

  • Adeline

    I was going to suggest the butter was too warm too – I get that all the time on my cookies! If in doubt, put the dough back in the fridge for a few minutes (I always do that when making sugar cookies).

    That’s also a very helpful link on cookie troubleshooting http://theperfectchocolatechipcookie.com/instruct.php

  • Anonymous

    One HUGE thing: Invest in very heavy cookie sheets. (Amazon usually has the Cuisinart and other good brand bakeware on sale year-round.) If you can’t afford them, stack at least two cookie sheets on top of one another. Cheap, thin cookie sheets make the outside is crispy with  the inside not fully cooked, and can give cookies a nasty a burnt taste.

  • AL

    I often use at least part shortening in place of butter… it spreads out less and helps fluff things up (although “fluffy” is not a descriptor I would usually use for a chocolate chip cookie)  I learned this from the excellent book Cookwise several years ago, and imagine that the more recent Bakewise would be an even more helpful resource.

  • Meghan

    I recently baked my first-ever batch of attractive cookies.  What I did differently was use a nice, thick half-sheet pan (ie, not a flimsy cookie sheet) and use dough that had been chilled.  I also patted each dome a little bit flat.  I think that was key.

    Also, this might be sacrilege, but I often reduce the butter quantity in a recipe (especially if it calls for a crazy amount).  More butter = more spreading, and a batch of cookies with 1.5 sticks of butter is just as delicious as a batch made with 2!

  • T.

    If you add a small packet of instant vanilla pudding mix into the batter they stay fluffy and chewy!

  • Allison

    Thank you, thank you. . . thank you!! I tried to make choc chip cookies for a work function this week and had this exact problem. With these tips in mind, I hope my next attempt is more successful.

  • http://twitter.com/ABitchinKitchen Maggie G.

     Those are all awesome tips – I always, always, always chill my dough. It makes a huge difference. However, I would recommend not even bothering with the Tollhouse recipe. Alton Brown’s recipe for “The Chewy” is the best chocolate chip cookie recipe I’ve tried, if you don’t mind making an extra trip to the grocery store for bread flour!

    Thanks for the tip about unsalted versus salted butter…I never new that!

    Here is the Alton Brown recipe that I use if you’re interested;

    http://abitchinkitchen.blogspot.com/2010/01/chocolate-chip-cookies.html

  • http://www.ambitiousdeliciousness.com Esther @ambitiousdelish

    Great tips, alejandra! :)

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